Tucked away between the better-known islands of Lombok and Flores lies Sumbawa—an island that might not top most travelers’ bucket lists, but perhaps it should. Especially if you’re the kind of traveler who seeks unforgettable wildlife encounters far from the crowds.
Sumbawa is home to one of Indonesia’s best-kept secrets: the whale sharks of Saleh Bay.
These gentle giants, the largest fish in the world, congregate in a pristine, remote bay that has quietly become a dream destination for marine enthusiasts, scientists, and eco-conscious travelers. But what exactly draws these elusive creatures to Saleh Bay—and why should this place be on your radar?
Let’s dive in.
Meet the Whale Sharks of Saleh Bay
Whale sharks (Rhincodon typus) are filter-feeding behemoths that can grow up to 12 meters long. Don’t let their size intimidate you—they are peaceful, plankton-munching creatures that pose no threat to humans. In fact, swimming alongside one often feels more like floating near a passing cloud than encountering a sea monster.
In Saleh Bay, these whale sharks appear regularly and reliably during certain months of the year, giving visitors an extraordinary chance to observe them in their natural habitat. Unlike other places where feeding or luring is used to ensure sightings, the whale sharks of Saleh Bay come for natural reasons—making the experience both thrilling and ethical.
Why Saleh Bay?
Saleh Bay (Teluk Saleh in Indonesian) is a vast, almost lagoon-like inlet in north-central Sumbawa. Surrounded by hills, dotted with remote fishing villages, and largely untouched by mass tourism, it’s a place where tradition and nature coexist.
What makes the bay so special? One answer lies in its bagan—traditional wooden fishing platforms suspended over the water. These platforms are used by local fishermen who drop nets at night, using lights to attract small fish. Inevitably, some of the catch escapes or spills from the nets, and this free buffet draws in whale sharks from the deeper waters.
Rather than being fed directly, as in some other tourist hotspots, the whale sharks of Saleh Bay arrive naturally, drawn by a unique combination of environment and local tradition.
An Ethical Model for Marine Encounters
Not all wildlife tourism is created equal. In some parts of the world, whale sharks are artificially fed to keep them in one place, often leading to long-term damage to their behavior, health, and migration patterns.
But Saleh Bay is different.
Here, tourism is guided by principles of responsibility, conservation, and respect. Local fishermen and tour guides—many of whom are former or active fishers—are being trained to follow ethical guidelines, such as:
- No touching or feeding of the whale sharks.
- Keeping a respectful distance while swimming.
- Limiting the number of swimmers at a time.
- Monitoring and recording sightings for conservation purposes.
This has created an atmosphere where tourism doesn’t exploit the whale sharks, but helps protect and fund their continued presence.
A Scientific Treasure Trove
The whale sharks of Saleh Bay aren’t just tourist attractions—they’re also of immense scientific interest. Marine biologists from across Indonesia and the globe have started tagging and tracking individuals seen in the bay, hoping to better understand their patterns and preserve their populations.
Data collected here has already revealed surprising migration paths, with some tagged sharks traveling thousands of kilometers toward the Philippines, Papua, or even Australia.
What makes this even more impressive is that this entire conservation movement began not in a university lab, but on fishing platforms and village shorelines—led by local people who saw value in preserving what they had.
When to Visit
Whale shark sightings in Saleh Bay are most frequent from May to October, when the seas are calm and conditions are ideal. Early morning hours typically provide the best chance of encounters, with the added bonus of gorgeous sunrise views over the still waters.
Tours usually depart from Labuan Jambu, a small fishing village that has become the main gateway for whale shark experiences. From there, it’s a short boat ride to the bagan, where the magic happens.
What to Expect on a Whale Shark Tour
A typical tour begins before dawn. You’ll board a small boat and glide across the glassy waters of Saleh Bay as the sun begins to rise. Your guides will locate the active bagan and check for whale shark presence.
Once confirmed, you’ll receive a short briefing—how to behave in the water, what to avoid, and how to get the most out of your swim. Then, it’s time to jump in and share the ocean with these giants.
Most encounters last several minutes to over an hour, depending on the whale sharks’ mood and feeding behavior. And while underwater photos are encouraged, ethical operators prioritize the sharks’ safety above Instagram likes.
Responsible Travel Tips
If you’re planning to visit and swim with the whale sharks of Saleh Bay, here are a few simple but powerful ways to make your trip ethical and impactful:
- Choose ethical tour operators. Avoid any company that offers “guaranteed sightings” through feeding.
- Keep your distance. Stay at least 3 meters away and avoid diving directly in front of the whale shark.
- No flash photography or harsh lights. It can disorient marine life.
- Support local economies. Eat local, stay in locally-owned lodgings, and tip your guides fairly.
- Spread awareness, not misinformation. Share your experience mindfully to inspire responsible tourism.
Beyond the Whale Sharks
Although the whale sharks are the main draw, Sumbawa offers so much more. After your marine adventure, consider extending your stay to explore:
- Moyo Island: An untouched paradise with coral reefs and waterfalls.
- Mount Tambora: Site of the largest recorded volcanic eruption in human history.
- Traditional weaving villages: Discover the art of tenun ikat and meet the women who preserve this cultural heritage.
- Deserted beaches: Perfect for some post-tour relaxation.
Final Thoughts: A Model for the Future
The story of the whale sharks of Saleh Bay is more than just a great travel tale—it’s a blueprint. It shows how rural communities, when empowered and respected, can lead the way in creating sustainable, ethical tourism.
By choosing to visit Sumbawa and support its whale shark programs, you’re not just checking an item off your travel list. You’re becoming part of a movement that values coexistence over exploitation, conservation over commercialization.
In a world crowded with over-touristed destinations, Saleh Bay offers a refreshing reminder of how magical and meaningful travel can still be—if we choose to do it right.
So, when you’re ready for an encounter with Earth’s largest fish, come to Sumbawa. Come for the whale sharks. Stay for the stories. Leave with more than memories.